Turkish Yogurt and Tomato Sauce

The real name of this dish is Turkish Yogurt and Brown Butter Tomato Sauce. I discovered the sauce recipe on Saveur.com, by Ana Sortun. Turns out she’s the author of two cookbooks, shown below. I purchased Spice.

Interestingly enough, Ana Sortun was a young American chef when she traveled to Turkey and discovered its cuisine. “Inspired beyond measure, Sortun opened her own restaurant in Cambridge, Massachusetts, the award-winning Oleana.”

There, she created interpretations of dishes incorporating the incredible array of delicious spices and herbs used in eastern regions of the Mediterranean, including Turkey. According to Chef Sortun, yogurt and tomato combine to create a delicious, creamy sauce with hints of peppery zest. This traditional sauce is used on manti, Turkish spiced lamb-filled dumplings.

When I researched manti, I discovered that they come in an endless variety of shapes – some resembling Japanese gyoza and some Chinese steamed buns. When I read further, I discovered that its close relative is momo, which we actually enjoyed when we were in Leh, Ladakh last year (India). We also had a traditional yak dish that was wonderful. The restaurant was called Namza Dining.

I wasn’t in the mood to make filled fancy dumplings in order to try the sauce, so I decided to make spaetzle instead; see recipe below. Not filled, nor steamed, but still a great doughy vehicle for the Turkish sauce.

The only ingredient I needed for the yogurt-tomato sauce was maras pepper. These chile peppers are native to Turkey and are completely different from Aleppo chile peppers. Of course I had to have the real thing and, once again, Amazon helped me out.

This sauce was even more intriguing to me, not only because of this new chile pepper but also the combination of it with dried spearmint and sumac. And by the way, the book Spice is wonderful. I absolutely love Turkish cuisine, and the recipes do not disappoint.

Turkish Yogurt and Brown Butter Tomato Sauce
Printable recipe below

2 minced garlic cloves
1 tsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 cups plain, whole milk Greek yogurt (16 oz.)
Kosher salt to taste
2 cups canned diced tomatoes, drained (14 oz.)
1/4 pound unsalted butter
2 tbsp. maraÅŸ pepper
1 tbsp. dried spearmint, rubbed through a sieve
1 tbsp. sumac

In a small mixing bowl, combine the garlic and lemon juice and let stand for 5 minutes. Stir in the yogurt and season to taste with kosher salt; set the yogurt sauce aside. I can only get 2% non-fat yogurt where I live so I let it drain overnight on paper towels before using.

Melt the butter over medium heat. Allow the foam to subside and the milk solids to brown lightly, about 8 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low, and add the tomato.

Simmer in the brown butter until the tomato is soft and jammy, about 15 minutes. Season to taste with kosher salt and set aside, but keep warm. I used a potato masher to “mush” of the diced tomatoes.

To serve, divide warmed yogurt sauce evenly between 6 bowls. Add manti/dumplings/spaetzle to each dish, followed by 1/4 cup of tomato sauce.

Sprinkle generously with mara pepper, dried spearmint, and sumac.

Serve immediately.

I was overwhelmed with happy yumminess when I made à§ilbur, a Turkish egg and yogurt dish. But this feta, dumpling and yogurt-tomato sauce dish is tied in first place. It is magnificent.

Maybe next time I’ll make the spicy lamb-stuffed dumplings. I can’t even imagine how much better the dish could be!

For the spaetzle, combine 2 eggs with about 1 cup of milk and whisk. Add flour until you have a dumpling consistency; the batter should not be runny. Drop and cook teaspoonfuls in boiling water; they will rise to the surface when done, about 2 minutes. Place on paper towels to drain. When all are cooked, toss with a small amount of oil to keep them moist and to prevent sticking.