My first Irish boxty was not eaten in Ireland. It was, in fact, enjoyed in an Irish pub in, of all places, Tulsa, Oklahoma. It’s called Kilkenny’s, and it’s been an established and popular Irish pub since 2002.
I really enjoyed the boxty, which I’d never heard of before. I only ordered it because I wanted something traditionally Irish since I was in an Irish pub. And it was good – a giant potato-based pancake filled with creamy goodness. I can’t really remember all of the details now, but because of that experience, I was determined to have one in Ireland… which I did just a few weeks ago.
We had lunch in Dublin at Gallagher’s Boxty House. We went there knowing that it was a touristy sort of place, but I had to have a traditional boxty. Gallagher’s Boxty House is an unassuming little restaurant in the Temple Bar area of Dublin.
It actually seemed like only locals were eating lunch there – especially families with children. The young man who waited on us was 17, and the son of the restaurant’s owner. It was nice finding out it’s a family business.
But touristy or not, we all had a fabulous lunch. I chose the seafood boxty and it was delicious.
After returning from Ireland last week, I wanted to make boxty. I own a book on Irish cooking*, and it revealed that the boxty originated in the north of Ireland, actually. The word boxty came about from the fact that people cut holes in boxes in order to grate the potatoes to make this dish! I now appreciate my metal grater even more than ever.
There are a few different versions of boxty. One is exactly like what I had in Tulsa and in Dublin – an oversized pancake with filling. Another version is a smaller pancake served simply with butter.
The third version is from a thicker pancake batter – essentially a dough. Round shapes are cut out of it much like our biscuits, and baked. I think I actually saw these on breakfast menus in Ireland, because they were described as hash brown potato cakes.
Here’s my version of the giant boxty pancake with a creamed ham and cheese filling.
Boxty with Creamy Ham and Cheese Filling
4 medium baking potatoes, peeled
1 1/2 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
2 cups milk, I used whole
Butter
Chop up two of the peeled potatoes and boil them until done. If you’re not sure, stick a fork in the pieces to see if they are tender. When they are cooked, drain the potatoes; set aside.
Grate the remaining two potatoes and place them on paper towels for a few minutes to drain.
Then place the grated potatoes in a medium bowl. Add the flour and baking powder. Mash the two cooked potatoes and add to the grated potatoes in the bowl.
Give everything a stir, then slowly stir in the milk. The batter should have some consistency, yet be somewhat thin as well.
Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Use a generous amount of butter for each pancake. When the skillet is hot, almost completely fill the bottom of the skillet with the batter. Don’t make it too thick, but also fill in any thin spots or holes. Turn down the heat to medium, and cover the skillet with a lid.
After a few minutes, turn the heat down to low to finish cooking the pancake. I discovered that it was nearly impossible to flip over these “pancakes,” so I just let them cook on the bottom side slowly.
After a few more minutes, slide the pancake onto a large plate, turn up the heat again, and make a second pancake. When the second one is done, slide it onto a separate plate.
Complete as many pancakes as you wish, then proceed with the filling:
Filling:
1 recipe for white sauce
About 2 cups of chopped ham
6 ounces Monterey jack cheese
Make a white sauce according to the directions using butter, flour, and milk or cream, whichever you prefer.
Stir in the ham and the cheese. I also sprinkled in some white pepper, but that is certainly optional.
Add a generous amount of the filling to each boxty, and fold the other side over. Repeat with the remaining boxties that you made. The filing will generously fill four boxties, approximately 8″ in diameter.
Serve immediately.
* It’s called The Scottish-Irish Pub and Hearth Cookbook, by Kay Shaw Nelson.