I’ve been a fan of Stephan Pyles for decades. It all started when he was the chef at a hip diner called The Bronx in Dallas; this was the late 70’s. My roommate and I went to brunch there on the weekends occasionally, and next thing we knew, he got investors and got big. His restaurants were extremely popular.
What made his cooking so unique and wonderful is that he was one of the Dallas chefs who really evolved Southwestern cuisine. (Dean Fearing was another big player.) When I tasted his food it was like entering a new world for me, of freshness from avocados, jicama and cilantro, savory with sweet like shrimp with mango, spicy sauces with chipotle and other chile peppers, and so much more.
Fortunately, in 1993, he published his cookbook The New Texas Cuisine. I think it’s the most used cookbook in my collection. One Thanksgiving, I went all Southwestern. I made his turkey with blue corn and chorizo stuffing plus sweet potato enchiladas with tomatillo sauce and queso fresco. There were other sides but I can’t remember them!
It turns out that this recipe isn’t even a Stephan Pyles recipe; it’s from a friend who worked with him at the Robert Mondavi Great Chefs of France program in California. I really thought the recipe sounded brilliant, no matter who created it.
Blueberry Coleslaw
4 cups finely shredded red cabbage
2 cups finely shredded white cabbage
1 cup finely julienned celery
1 cup thinly sliced red onion
2 cups mayonnaise
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/3 cup ancho chile purée
Salt to taste
1 cup fresh blueberries
1 cup toasted pine nuts
In a large mixing bowl, combine the vegetables. I used my mandoline and glove for the cabbages
In a separate bowl, combine the mayonnaise, vinegar, chile purée, and salt.
Fold the mayonnaise mixture into the vegetables.
Add the blueberries and pine nuts and serve immediately.
I think that some blueberries should also go in the cole slaw for extra blueberry flavor.
This slaw would be great with brisket, sausages, shrimp, grilled chicken, fried chicken, and tacos.
I served the cole slaw with Earl Campbell’s hot links! (I was a fan!)
The slaw was excellent, but I think it would be prettier with just white cabbage.