Bone Marrow Risotto

After thoroughly enjoying Mimi Thorisson’s French Country Cooking cookbook, published in 2016, from which I made Roast Bone Marrow with Herbs, I decided to purchase her newest cookbook, Old World Italian, published in 2020. It seems that the whole large family moved from what I assumed to be their forever home in Médoc, France, to Turin in Italy.

If you’re at all familiar with authentic Italian cuisine, you won’t be surprised by the recipes, really. They represent all regions of Italy, and are beautifully photographed as well by her photographer husband.

The one recipe that did jump out at me from this cookbook is bone marrow risotto. I guess Mimi and I both share a thing for bone marrow, as well as our first names! But I’ve never had it any other way than roasted. I couldn’t wait to make this risotto.

I halved the recipe because my husband won’t eat marrow, and I don’t believe in reheating risotto. It’s just never the same as freshly prepared.

From Ms. Thorisson: “The first time I had this risotto, I said out loud after the first few bites, “This is the best risotto I’ve ever had.” I still stand by that claim.”

Bone Marrow Risotto

2 pounds beef marrow bones
Fine sea salt
1 1/2 to 2 quarts oxtail stock (see below)
12 tablespoons unsalted butter
Extra-virgin olive oil
4 medium onions, finely chopped
2 cup carnaroli rice (I used Arborio)
2/3 cup white wine
2/3 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
A few fresh chives, finely chopped (I used parsley)
Freshly ground black pepper

The day before, in a large bowl, combine the marrow bones with water to cover and 3 tablespoons salt. Refrigerate and soak for 24 hours. Change the water two or three times in that period, adding more salt each time.

Pat the bones dry and remove the marrow with a long spoon. Cut into 12 slices, each about 3/4” thick. Set aside.

In a medium saucepan, bring the stock to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to low to keep the stock at a simmer.

In a large sauté pan, heat 6 tablespoons of the butter, 2 tablespoons of olive oil, a pinch of salt, and half the bone marrow over medium heat. When it begins to melt and sizzle, add the onions, then cover and cook for 5 minutes. Uncover and continue to cook until the onions have softened completely, another 5 minutes. Set the onion soffritto aside.

In a large heavy saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat. Add the rice and stir well to coat. Sauté until the oil has coated the rice evenly, about 3 minutes. Stir in 1 teaspoon salt and 3/4 of the onion soffritto. Stir in the white wine. When the wine starts to evaporate, gradually begin adding the hot stock by the ladleful, stirring constantly, adding more to keep the rice covered at all times. Repeat this step until the rice is creamy but still al dente, 15 to 20 minutes.

Preheat the broiler. Place the remaining marrow on a baking sheet with the remaining onion soffritto on top. Broil until sizzling, about 5 minutes.

Remove the risotto from the heat and add the Parmigiano and the remaining 6 tablespoons butter. Stir well until you get a creamy texture.

Divide among serving dishes and top with the broiled bone marrow and a scattering of finely chopped chives. Season with salt and pepper and serve immediately.

This risotto was, not surprisingly, the best risotto I’ve ever eaten.

Ms. Thorisson has an oxtail stock recipe associated with this risotto, but I just created my own the day before. I combined oxtail, neck bones, beef broth, onion, carrot, celery, parsley, bay leaves, and salt and pepper and cooked the mixture for 4 hours. I strained the stock then chilled it overnight so I could remove most of the fat.