I’m addicted to cheese. It’s one of the joys in my life, besides the obvious stuff like family and friends. If only I was addicted to celery, I wouldn’t have to bake bread to go with cheese.
Bread is not something I make a lot anymore. I used to make it almost daily, mostly for my husband, who is bread addicted. These days he’s down on carbs, so that’s why I don’t bake much anymore. But fortunately I don’t have to twist his arm to get him to eat cheese – especially good cheese.
I’ve mentioned before that the holidays make me think of all kinds of festive foods. In my house, from
October 1st Thanksgiving through New Year’s it’s a food frenzy.
I not only start planning dishes with figs and cranberries and sweet potatoes, I plan the cheese itinerary. On top of that list is Époisses, my most favorite cheese of all time. We discovered it when in Beaune, which is in the Burgundy region of France, in 2002. To this day, I think it’s still banned on French transportation. And it’s a French cheese!
Although it would be classified as a stinky cheese because of the smell (think standing amongst cows in a cow paddy), it is wonderfully smooth and flavorful. You just have to be able to stand near it in order to eat it.
When I serve it, I always serve it with dense. yeasted breads filled with dried fruits and nuts. They just go together.
The other day I happened upon some dried currants, so I picked those up. And because of my love of hazelnuts this time of year, they’re going into the bread as well. For today I’ll just stick to currants and hazelnuts, but there will be a generous amount of both. Sometimes I make the bread so dense with fruits and nuts that it’s almost like a yeasted fruitcake, but this one is on the breadier side.
Époisses comes in a little carton. So you really don’t have to do anything presentation wise if you don’t want to. But do make sure you take it out of the refrigerator about 3-4 hours before you serve it. That’s the only way you will get the lovely runniness that typifies this unique cheese.
Fruit and Nut Bread for Cheese Pairing
3 ounces currants
Cherry brandy or port
3 ounces toasted hazelnuts
1/4 cup water
2 teaspoons yeast
1/2 teaspoon sugar
8 ounces goat’s milk or evaporated milk
1 egg, whisked
Scant 5 cups of flour in total, 1/2 cup of it whole wheat flour
Place the currants in a small bowl, and cover with a liquid like port. Or, if you prefer, use orange juice. Let them soften for at least 30 minutes before draining them thoroughly right before using. You can always save the liquid for another purpose.
Have all your ingredients ready. Chop the hazelnuts and set aside.
Place 1/4 of warm water in a large, warmed bowl. Sprinkle on the yeast and sugar, and let it sit for about 3-4 minutes, or until the yeast softens.
Give the mixture a whisk, then put the bowl in a warm place for about 5 minutes. The mixture will have doubled in volume. If you would like a yeasted bread tutorial, please see this recipe, which is also a fruit and nut bread.
Add warmed milk and the whisked egg to the yeast mixture. I thought I had a can of evaporated milk, but it turned out to be goat’s milk. It still works.
Then whisk 1/2 cup of flour into the mixture. Place the bowl back into a warm place and let the mixture double in volume, about 45 minutes.
Switching to a spoon or spatula, vigorously stir in 1 cup of flour. Cover the bowl with a damp dishcloth, and return to the warm place for about 1 hour.
Next, add 1/2 cup of whole wheat flour and the hazelnuts and stir together. The bread dough is ready to be turned out onto a floured surface.
Using about 1/3 more of flour, knead the dough until smooth, then fold the currants into the dough.
Knead a few more minutes until the currants are fully incorporated, then place the dough into a greased loaf pan, or any pan or pans of choice. Place it in the warm place for at least 30 minutes, or until the dough has at least doubled in size.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 375 degrees Farenheit.
Place the pan in the oven and bakeit approximately 40 minutes. If you’re not sure if it’s done, you can use a thermometer to see if it has reached 195 degrees internally. It shouldn’t become hotter than that or it will be overbaked.
Let the bread cool. When you’re ready to serve it slice it with a serrated knife.
I love the pairing of a fruit and nut bread with this particular cheese. I also served it with a rosé.
Look how gooey Époisses is: