I’ve been a faithful follower of the exquisite blog The Garum Factory for quite a while now. The owners of the blog, Ken and his wife Jody, are not your typical bloggers. In fact, I’m not sure why they blog, and how they find the time to take to the web with their recipes, photographs and commentaries.
Maybe Ken and Jody are no different than any other bloggers out there, in that they enjoy the interaction that comes with blogging, and the sharing of their favorite foods. But then, they really are different from most bloggers.
You see, Jody is Jody Adams, co-owner and chef of Rialto in Boston, Massachusetts. So that’s different. And if that wasn’t enough, her husband, Ken Rivard, is a journalist and photographer. So doesn’t that just make a perfect team for a perfect blog?
Even though my nickname is Chef Mimi, which hopefully everyone knows by now is just a nickname – I am not a chef and I have no desire to be a chef. Long hours in the hot kitchen, yelling at the underlings, perfection and consistency, working on holidays, I can’t cook with long sleeves, I hate wearing hats, my arches are too high to wear clogs comfortably… so many reasons why I have no interest in going to culinary school for the purpose of becoming a restaurant chef.
However, thank god some people do, because my best food experiences have been in restaurants around the world from chefs who have been slaving away in their kitchens. I honor great chefs!
So it was because I’m so enthralled with The Garum Factory blog, with both Jody the chef and Ken the photographer/writer, that I ordered their cookbook. It’s called, “In the Hands of a Chef,” and was published in 2002. It’s getting more difficult to purchase, but I was able to get one without any trouble. And, if you noticed I called it their cookbook – because it was written by Ken, who was responsible for the photographs as well! (Although not enough of them, might I add!) So how’s that for working together?!!!
So one evening I’m doing what I often do – reading my new cookbook, sticky notes in one hand, and a glass of wine nearby. Jody writes a very interesting introduction, detailing her road to becoming a chef and, subsequently, restaurateur. And then the recipes begin.
So why am I writing all of this? Jody and Ken certainly don’t need my approval of either their blog, cookbook, or the restaurant. I’ll explain.
On page 106 I come across a recipe for Skordalia, and something tripped my memory.
My husband and I have been lucky enough to visit Boston on two different occasions many years ago. I was especially lucky, in that I was the freewheeling spouse who took advantage of the beautiful weather both times, and walked miles and miles to see this beautiful city. I went to markets, bought some fresh lobsters for the people babysitting my daughters, sauntered through Little Italy, and had the best $4. lunch in Vietnam town.
One night we went out to dinner at a beautiful restaurant and were served skordalia. I had to inquire to find out what this fluffy white substance was. So I’m thinking now that it must have been a free offering before dinner got started. Otherwise I probably wouldn’t have ordered it, not being familiar with the name, skordalia.
So, not that this is terribly profound or anything. In fact, the better story would be that my husband and I happened to have eaten at Rialto, but that wasn’t the case. Sorry.
But I thought it odd that I had enjoyed skordalia in Boston, and here was a skordalia recipe in Jody and Ken’s book based on recipes from Rialto. I haven’t come across the name skordalia since my Boston experience. So I began a Facebook chat with Ken. He immediately knew at what restaurant I’d had the skordalia. It was called Biba – quite famous in its time – whose chef/owner was Lydia Shire. I’ve always had good taste in restaurants, but it also helped that my husband and I were on expense account.
So then I asked if there was a significant Greek population in town, being that skordalia is Greek in origin. Turns out, it was just a coincidence, that I’ve only had skordalia in Boston. But I knew I wanted to make it myself, using the recipe from “In the Hands of a Chef” cookbook.
Ms. Adams may not appreciate that this is the first recipe I chose to make from their cookbook, because it’s certainly not representative of all of the recipes, but hopefully she’ll understand my motivation in wanting to make and taste this lovely concoction once again.
Skordalia is essentially garlicky mashed potatoes. Except it’s served like a hummus. And you can’t really tell it’s potatoes.
Jody writes, “In its homeland of Greece, skordalia blurs the distinctions between sauce and condiment, between condiment and side dish, between hot and room-temperature food.” See? It’s a little confusing.
So here is the recipe from the cookbook, In the Hands of a Chef, by Jody Adams and Ken Rivard – both of whom I know personally. (Not really, but I’d like to think I do!)
Skordalia
2 pounds baking potatoes, peeled and cut into large pieces
Kosher salt
4 garlic cloves, minced and then mashed with 1/4 teaspoon salt to a paste
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
5 teaspoons champagne vinegar (or high-quality white wine vinegar)
Freshly ground black pepper
Put the potatoes in a saucepan, add cold water to cover by 1 inch, season with salt, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the potatoes are tender, about 20 minutes. Be careful not to overcook them, or they will become waterlogged.
Drain,
return the potatoes to the pan, and cook over medium heat tossing a few times until dry, about 5 minutes.
While the potatoes are still warm, push them through a ricer into a large bowl.
(Don’t let them cool, or they’ll be too gummy to push through the ricer.)
Beat in the garlic and olive oil. Add the vinegar and season with salt and pepper to taste.
Serve warm or at room temperature.
Jody writes, “Don’t try to take shortcuts by using a food processor instead of ricing the potatoes and then whipping in the garlic and oil by hand. The potatoes will turn gummy instead of remaining starchy.”
note: The skordalia was really good as is, served with some pita chips. It’s garlicky, fluffy potato goodness. I drizzled a little bit of olive oil over the top before serving. But then, I also served the skordalia to my husband with a filet. (This recipe makes about 4 side-dish servings similar to mashed potatoes.) Before I could take a photo, he had eaten half of it and “ruined” my photographic opportunity. Oh well. Trust me, this is good stuff.
I. Thoroughly enjoyed reading through this post and being introduced to a new way of preparing potatoes.
Thanks!
Great job, Mimi (the check’s in the mail… ). What a generous intro–thank you very much. I do have to make to a pair of corrections. Although I do the photography on the blog, the photos in the book were taken by the illustrious Ellen Silverman in New York. One other note: I’m a writer, not a journalist. It’s a distinction I make to exalt journalists, not to inflate writers.
You actually do begin with a great recipe. Skordalia is one of our kids’ favorite things in the word. If the intro to the recipe is a bit confusing, it’s because skordalia itself is so adaptable and because it varies so much from place to place. If you think of skordalia as Starch + Vinegar + Garlic + Olive Oil it all becomes a little more comprehensible.
Jody’s version uses potato as the starch, and the result places it (I think) most firmly in the side-dish category. With grilled lamb chops or fish it’s wonderful. But other versions use stale bread soaked in wine and vinegar, then squeezed, as the starch (or stale bread + walnuts). The starch is pounded in a mortar with garlic and olive oil into a very loose paste. These latter two versions often accompany salt cod as the sauce or condiment you referenced earlier. Or are served as a dip with pita or fresh vegetables.
I’ve had all three versions, and while I love all three in their contexts, the potato version is the winner for me.
Oh, rationale for the blog is the same as Brain’s in the PINKY AND THE BRAIN cartoons – we’re trying to take over the world. (And we do enjoy participating in the blogiverse with other folks seriously involved in food.)
Thanks again. Ken
I’ll wait by my mailbox…
Thanks for the corrections. I assumed you were the photographer – I should have checked. I actually like your blog photos way better, for what that’s worth.
I’m glad I honored the cookbook with skordalia. And it is a confusing food. Hope I unconfused people about it a bit. We ate it both as a “dip” and then as a side dish.
I really need to go to Greece and taste all the versions; it’s on my travel bucket list!
PS: I’m glad you blog!
I 💗 skordalia! My children’s God-parents are Greek, and I ask them to make for me this ALL the time. This recipe looks amazing . . . Delicious!
Thanks so much! Greek food is so fabulous, isn’t it?!!!
Chef Mimi, beautiful post an introduction to not only this dynamic team but skordalia. I’ve used a potato ricer since my school days and it yields a far superior mashed potato. So interesting to hear Chef Adams note that using a ricer is a must. Although your husband got to the finished dish rather quickly, your photos are beautiful (I love the ruffled bowl featured in several of your pics).
Best to you and thank you for the recipe!
Allison
Thank you so much Allison! Ricing wasn’t easy – I used the disc with the smallest hole – but it’s definitely worth it!
I remember loving this dish when we got it at Mykonos Restaurant in the NW suburbs of Chicago. Thanks for the recipe. Can’t wait to try making it at home.
It’s so good, and unique!
The Garum Factory is one of my favorite blogs, too. Not only are the recipes top-notch, but Ken and Jody are funny and friendly.
It’s a wonderful blog. I feel honored to read every new post!
It is indeed good stuff. I love skordalia! Thanks for the great read.
You are so welcome!
This looks such an interesting recipe – I’ve never heard of it before. I really want to try it – I can’t believe it doesn’t taste like mashed potatoes and really want to try it. (Now going out to find a ricer!)
If you know it’s made with potatoes, then it does taste like potatoes, but for some reason, if I’m remembering right, I had no idea it was potatoes the first time I tasted skordalia!
Yum, it’s a regional thing but almond meal is sometimes added to Skordalia in Greece. I love it as a garlicky sauce for fried calamari, I think it probably has gallons more oil than your recipe, or perhaps it’s thinned with cooking water. Must check out the Garum Factory
You’ll love the blog!
I LOVE finding out about foods I’ve never heard of before! This looks like something I’m going to love! thanks for posting such an unusual recipe.
Me, too! And I’m so glad i was reintroduced to skordalia!
Very nice indeed Mimi. I have been following Jodie and Ken for a while now. They do it right. Both the cooking and the photography are of the very highest standards. Nice people too.
Best,
C
Definitely!
I love their blog, it’s beautiful and the photo’s are amazing. I love skordalia, I also use my mill with the disc with the smallest holes and I always get perfectly smooth potatoes.You are so right this is good stuff!
I’m so glad I had it again!
I’ve never heard of skordalia before, it looks great, thank you ☺️ and thank you for the background and sharing your story x
You’re so welcome!
☺️❌
What an interesting recipe! Looks delicious!
Thanks!
You always have such wonderful stories, and have such a gift for telling them. You pull a person in from the very first sentence, and keep us going right to the very end! Love this.. :-)
I have never heard of Skordalia, it sounds wonderful, and I will be trying it for sure. I’ve never visited The Garum Factory, only hearing about it for the first time here. I’m heading there right now.
Wonderful post. <3
Well shoot…. I think I just followed suit with The Wolf of Wallstreet…. can we count how many times Prudy said “wonderful” in her comment? hahaha!
Thank you so much, that’s very sweet.
You must visit the garum factory – odd name, great blog!
Wow. Great post. I love Jody and Ken’s blog too. They’re an amazing team and so responsive to their community. They’re also extremely talented. What a cool recipe that you picked. I actually didn’t know they had a cookbook. I’m going to hunt it down. Thanks, Mimi for your dedication to the culinary arts as well. I learn a lot from your curiosity as a chef/cook. It’s very generous of you to showcase those who you admire. It’s kind of an act of love!
Thank you Amanda! That is very sweet of you!
Those darned husbands! I did however steal an appetizer back from my husband to take a photo of it once with a bite taken out of it. He went to get a glass of milk and went back to his plate… “HEY, where’s my food???” LOL. Oops. Anyways, a lovely post about an interesting experience with Skordalia. And it sounds delicious!
I know! they expect to eat everything we cook – even before it’s been photographed!!!
I just love “mashed” potatoes … however they have been done. Will give this a try next time. Thanks !!!
You will definitely enjoy skordalia, then!
I’m sure I will .. and I will let you know. *smile