Cheese Lover
When I was 18, in 1974, I went with my mother to France. I’d been there before but on this trip we were not only going to visit family in her lovely hometown of Nancy, we were also going to visit my mother’s aunt. Because I was born in the U.S., I’d never met her.
Tâti, as she was known, lived in Corsica, the island off of the southern coast of France. See the little pale green island north of Sardinia?
To get there, we had to take a bumpy (understatement) ferry from Nice into Ajaccio. Then we were driven to Tâti’s home up mountainous roads in an ancient Deux Chevaux.
Tâti owned a lively bar tabac in a quaint hilltop village. Her bar was pretty typical – a small, dark place that had more outdoor seating than indoor. Locals came by every day to drink, which is typical in Europe. Tâti also cooked food in the back kitchen. And when my mother and I showed up, it was a celebration. She was very excited.
We all sat outside and enjoyed the sunshine and ambiance. My mother was served some fancy aperitif that she said tasted like cough syrup. Not being much of a drinker, she eventually tossed it into a potted plant, without anyone knowing, of course.
Next, out came the celebratory cheese. But not your everyday cheese, mind you, it was a local specialty. And it was moving.
My mother and I took a closer look at this wheel of cheese and there were maggots on it, 100’s of them, happily chomping away on the cheese. I thought I was going to pass out. My mother, who could eat just about anything, nearly passed out as well.
I’ve written before about how I tend to be a food snob, although my tastes were limited until my 20’s. But I’d like to think that I was born a cheese connoisseur. I love cheese. But connoisseur or not, there was no way I was eating maggots.
Recently I was remembering this “experience” and decided to google the cheese – and I found it! It’s called Casu Marzu. Here are a few excerpts from Wikipedia so you can truly appreciate this cheese:
“Derived from Pecorino, Casu Marzu goes beyond typical fermentation to a stage most would consider decomposition, brought about by the digestive action of the larvae of the cheese fly Piophila casei. These larvae are deliberately introduced to the cheese, promoting an advanced level of fermentation and breaking down of the cheese’s fats. The texture of the cheese becomes very soft, with some liquid (called lagrima, from Latin for “tear”) seeping out. The larvae themselves appear as translucent white worms, about 8 millimetres (0.3 in) long. When disturbed, the larvae can launch themselves for distances up to 15 centimetres (6 in). Some people clear the larvae from the cheese before consuming while others do not.
Casu marzu is created by leaving whole Pecorino cheese outside with part of the rind removed to allow the eggs of the cheese fly to be layed in the cheese. A female Piophila casei can lay more than five hundred eggs at one time. The eggs hatch and the larvae begin to eat through the cheese. The acid from the maggots’ digestive system breaks down the cheese… a typical casu marzu will contain thousands of these maggots.”
What???
Casu marzu is considered to be unsafe to eat by Sardinian aficionados when the maggots in the cheese have died. Because of this, only cheese in which the maggots are still alive is usually eaten, although allowances are made for cheese that has been refrigerated, which can kill the maggots.
Because the larvae in the cheese can launch themselves when disturbed, diners hold their hands above the cheese to prevent the maggots from leaping. Those who do not wish to eat live maggots place the cheese in a sealed paper bag. The maggots, starved for oxygen, writhe and jump in the bag, creating a “pitter-patter” sound. When the sounds subside, the maggots are dead and the cheese can be eaten.”
I know.
Fun, huh?
Fortunately the rest of the trip was not as memorable as the cheese. But Corsica is beautiful. I remember walking out into the Mediterranean water for what seemed a mile, the water only reaching my knees. And it was a clear, aqua blue. There were coral vendors dotted along the beach boulevard.
Unfortunately that was the last time I saw my great aunt. At that time I was attending college in California, and it would be years before I got back to France. But I have some pretty special memories of that trip.
I also know, as a big-time cheese lover, that I obviously have my limits!
If you’re really interested is this phenomenon, check out the you-tube videos on casu marzu! It’s fascinating!
Note: I’d written this post years ago, but thought I’d republish it because, well, it’s maggot cheese!
Gasp!!! 😱 I don’t think I could even be inches away from that cheese! One of my good friends is from Corsica, and from the photos she showed me, it’s stunning! An interesting read Mimi, thank you! 😊
I remember we practically had our noses on the cheese, because we knew something was amiss.. fortunately we didn’t disturb them and there’s was no launching!!!
Oh Lord, I’m salivating, and not in a good way. The idea of maggots is bad enough, but jumping maggots! Feeling queasy … what an experience, though, all round.
I’d forgotten about this cheese for years. Like seriously 35 years. I must have blocked it from my memory!!!
Trauma will do that to you. :)
Live bugs…that is definitely where I draw the line.
Me, too.
Mimi
I love love cheese. Not sure about this cheese, it’s an interesting read. Maybe the combination of strong alcohol from wine counter acts with the live action. If you ever do eat this let us know. Happy Eating…
Yeah… that’s not going to happen. In 40 years I haven’t gained a taste for maggots, dead or alive!!!
Great post Mimi. I love your memories of your childhood visit to Corsica. But that cheese! There’s no way I could eat it either.
No. And seriously my mother eats every part of everything. But not maggotty cheese!
Haha! Great story, Mimi. I’ve never had Casu Marzu (and this is the first time I hear of it), but I many years ago I had a boyfriend from Auvergne whose mom would serve a thing called “fromage aux artisous”, which was quite similar to what you describe. It is a raw cow’s milk cheese which is only made in the Puy-en-Velay area, and I never dared try it, as it looks really disturbing. My dad had it once, and didn’t like it at all (though he didn’t mind the larvae). I wonder whether I would try it now if given a chance!
It starts with Pecorino, but the fact that it’s chewed up by maggots doesn’t give me the idea that it has an appealing texture. I could still not try it.
My dad grew up in Italy and recalls his father and grandfather eating those cheeses with the worms in it. He couldn’t quite get up the nerve to do it himself!
Well I don’t blame him!!!
I wonder what it tastes like — without the maggots that is.
It starts as a wheel of Pecorino, but I’d bet the texture is really different after the maggots regurgitate it, or whatever you’d call it!
I love cheese. I do not like maggots. There is no way I would eat this cheese…someone would have to kill the maggots and give it to me without my knowledge. And…then I would probably like it.
It’s from Pecorino, so if you didn’t know about the maggots, it probably would be a great cheese. But the texture is all different because of the maggots, so I don’t know…
I am all for a high protein diet, but I prefer my protein served in different ways, not jumping, not moving, not having to be asphyxiated in plate ;-) I knew about carsu marzu but had never seen close up and personal. I intend to keep it this way
I don’t blame you! It was truly a shock that I blocked from my memory for about 35plus years
I consider myself somewhat adventurous eater but I think I would draw the line with maggots. Really interesting.
Exactly!!!
“When disturbed, the larvae can launch themselves for distances up to 15 centimetres (6 in).” I am so grossed out right now. And intrigued. This was an awesome post. Personal and informative. Thank you! When I was in high school, I signed us up for a foreign exchange student from Corsica. She lived with us for a few weeks and was so cool. Unfortunately we had a bit of a language barrier and were so young that we didn’t discuss food much, but it was during Passover so she learned the joys of matzoh and macaroons (coconut, not French). I always wonder about her still. Maybe she eats maggoty cheese. Amazing. Thank you, Mimi.
Hahaha! Thanks, Amanda!
Never fancied that cheese!
Hahaha!
Oh um, yeah, I think I would pass on this. I generally like my food not to be squirming. :) Fascinating though!
I know. It’s fascinating that they’ve begun to ban the cheese. It’s not like it’s being forced on to the public…
They should leave it alone if it doesn’t harm anyone. If someone wants to eat it, have at it. Red tape can stamp out a lot of good culture.
Well said!
OMG, no way I would eat this Mimi. I’ve heard about it, because my dad is from Sardinia, but no no…I definitely have my limits….no maggots go in my mouth..dead or alive!!! ;)
Fun post though :)
Thanks! Me, neither!!!
I’ve heard of this cheese, so strange…but do you know what, I would try it (although I’d probably be gagging at the same time!) Stilton used to also be famous for maggots; Daniel Defoe toured England in the 18th century and ate it. I found his quote for you: “we pass’d Stilton, a town famous for cheese, which is call’d our English Parmesan, and is brought to table with the mites, or maggots round it, so thick, that they bring a spoon with them for you to eat the mites with, as you do the cheese.” :)
Oh my. Very interesting, but you are the cheese expert! I see no good reason to try maggots, although they probably taste like cheese!
Wow! I eat almost anything, but I’m not sure if I could manage that…at least not with the live maggots! But so interesting, thanks for posting! I must have missed your earlier post.
You are so welcome! It was an interesting food experience – one I’d prefer to not repeat!
I remember seeing this crazy cheese on Bizarre Food America! Interesting that it is derived from Pecorino?? NO thanks… I draw the line at Pecorino!
Exactly!
Oh hell! I would run a mile…
I think I was too shocked to move.
Eek! I’d like to meet the first person who thought that it would be a good idea to eat cheese that had been infested with maggots. Were they desperate, crazy or just incredibly adventurous?
I know! Why would anyone want flies to lay eggs on any good food??!!!!!
Leaping maggots! I have never met a food I would not try but I have never met leaping maggot sandwiches. I’ve eaten live food but maggots, dead or alive isn’t really what I consider to be food. Even if the cheese itself happened to be lovely.
I have to wonder, who was the first person to eat and sell this cheese and who were the fools he managed to convince into buying his cheese?
I know. Hmmm, today I think I might have flies lay eggs on my perfectly good Pecorino!!!
Too challenging for me too!
Agreed!
It’s funny. I’ve eaten grubs in Australia and worms in Mexico but am not too sure I’m ready for maggots in my cheese. I sure would like to try it after picking out the wigglers though. Once again, you’ve given me something to go seek out. Thanks.
Go for it! You’re obviously way more adventurous than I am!!!
Hmm it looks like I’ve found my limit when it comes to cheese….maggots….ick. The rest of your trip sounded delightful though!
It was lovely. Corsica in my memories was stunning. It’s probably a bit different after 40 years…
Steve has always said he would eat it. And I am sure he would. But, I’ll take a pass.
We could all try it, but why bother?
I am not feeling the moment I guess. Maggots in the cheese, yuck. Interesting story though.
Even though I’ve become even more adventurous of an eater since being 18, I still wouldn’t want to try it!!!
Wow… adventurous, a little crazy, I don’t know how it works, I have never been into cheeses much! But I trust you :)
Cheers
Choc Chip Uru
Well, there’s hundreds of great cheeses, and then there’s maggot cheese!
I remember watching carluccio eat this cheese in a show once… not for me!
Me neither! 40 years later I still have no interest in maggotty cheese!
Hahaha
Not for the faint at heart!
That’s what I think!!!
You should have written “Look away now!” :-) …Just above the picture :-))) Arggggh!!!
Oh, sorry. That’s why I didn’t post the you tube videos!!!
hahahah! :-)
Mimi–You’ve outdone yourself–this is a great post! Casu Marzu–ha! I’ve only read about the cheese, never personally experienced it, although I’d definitely give it a shot now. We’re going to Sardinia in October, so I may get a chance. Thanks. Ken
Thanks so much! I seriously blocked this cheese from my memory until just a couple of years ago, which would make it 38 years! If you do find it in Sardinia, although you might have to know someone who knows someone, you’ll definitely have to take photos!!!
Count on it, hehe… Ken
Holy cow! My kids often ask me, ‘Mom, is there anything you won’t eat?’ Now, I have an answer for them. Thank you for that.
Hahaha! Me, too!
Cheese! Yes and absolutely!
Great post Mimi.. I thought I loved cheese but that is just a billion steps too far for me :)
Agreed! But I still love cheese… 99% of it!!!
I’m a cheese lover myself, but this is a little crazy haha – don’t know if I’d be able to disconnect from the maggots angle, no matter how delicious:)
Exactly!!!
Hi Mimi, would you be interested to participate at the blog tour (writing process)?? Here a link to give you an idea : http://traveleatlove.com/2014/05/my-writing-process-blog-tour/
PLease let me know as I’ll be posting tomorrow. You would be on next Monday…
Thanks,
Letizia
I guess I’m not really understanding what this is… Do I simply answer the same questions? If that’s it, you bet!
Yes it is :) and then you pass it forward to other 2 bloggers. You would be up Monday 09/06..so next week! So it’s a yes?? :)
Yes! Thanks! It will be fun!
I’d be very happy to visit Corsica but equally as happy to pass on the cheese! I just couldn’t eat anything with maggots! I’m not surprised your mother felt like throwing up – I think I would too! It’s amazing how there are people out there who would be only too happy to eat cheesy maggots! xx
Agreed. Of course, I grew up eating brains, and thought that was normal, but at least they don’t move!!!
Oh my goodness, are you saying this cheese is supposed to have these maggots? I ADORE cheese, and adore French cheeses, but I don’t think I could eat this either… gosh!
I wouldn’t eat it even today! And I’m way more adventurous now!!!
No way. I’m adventurous, but not to that extent! I stayed with friend is Quiberon, and they took me to a beautiful seaside restaurant. Deciphering menus is hard for a non-native speaker, even if your conversational French is decent. So I asked for their recommendation. They ordered a dish that amounted to a plate full of sea creatures with all of their heads, tails, antennae, eyeballs, tentacles, etc. I concealed my fight-or-flight instinct and simply asked for instructions on how to dissect them. It was delicious, but I plan to steer clear of this dish in the future!
You’re right – I’ve had a friend and guide the last three times in France, and even he, being French has a hard time with menus! I have to say I don’t like eating fish heads.
by the way, I couldn’t figure out how to follow your blog.
How do you like to do that, email? RSS? Bloglovin?
I usually just click follow and i get emails. but wordpress has hidden the follow button on their website
I’ll put an email subscriber on my page, in the right column.
This makes my mouth water for all the wrong reasons. I’m pretty catholic in my approach to food but maggots aren’t on the menu. :D
I know. I wish I had the actual photos from back then…. It was so traumatizing.
I’ll try most things. I think if the opportunity ever arose, I’d give it a go.
You’re a good man!!! Bugs and maggots don’t have any appeal to me!
What a great story and memory, Mimi. I love cheese too and am happy with very ripe and smelly – but maggots is definitely a step too far! :)
And who in the world was the first person to decide it was okay, in fact beneficial, to have flies lay eggs on a great wheel of pecorino?!!!
Hard to believe that sane people that are not starving to death would consume this.
Well ain’t that the truth!!!
Wow. Thanks, Mimi—I think I just threw up in my mouth a little! 😖 This sounds like the kind of thing Anthony Bourdain would’ve encountered in his travels. I’m with you on this one—no damn way!! 😂
Anthony would have gotten drunk and downed the cheese.
You’re probably right, Dorothy! He had a stomach of steel! 😂
Well I guess I’ve now heard just about everything.
I know. Crazy.
I also love almost any form of cheese but eating anything live is a line I don’t think I can cross. Interesting post.
I’ve had guinea pig (cooked) but I can’t do insects. Or larvae.
Oh, my. I would back my chair far, far away from that table!! Fascinating and nauseating at the same time!
Isn’t it though?!!
Non, merci. Absolument non.
No kidding.
Nope. Just nope. Like you, I love my cheese…but there is no way in the world I could handle eating cheese with maggots. Hard pass. But it does sound like lovely to own a bar in a hilltop village! That’s basically my dream. :-)
I would never want a restaurant, but I wouldn’t mind working at a little hilltop bar! In my next life…
This is not how I want to get my protein! I accidentally ate some worms in my homegrown cauliflower and that grossed me out – never again Ha!Ha!
Ew. No…… ugh.
Cauliflower florets are a great place to hide, they were small, light green and blended in with the cauliflower. Never grew it again!
horrible.
I’ve heard of that cheese. Which is as close to it as I want to get. Definitely not for me. Interesting read, though. Thanks! I think. :-)
You are so “welcome!”
I love cheese, it that one I’d pass on!
Pretty disgusting. right?!
Maggot cheese is way out of my comfort zone!
Right. It’s one thing to eat fried insects, but fly larvae? No…..
Now that is a story. And one I’m glad I read after I ate dinner!
Ha! Yeah, I know what you mean.
What an amazing trip and memories. I have never heard of that cheese and I’m not sure I want to try it! Lol!
It’s pretty much illegal now, although seriously I think people should be allowed to eat maggots if they so choose…
Oh my! I’m a cheese lover, but I’d probably pass on the Casu Marzu! :D
I know. I wish I had some old photos, but it was 1974 and The photos wouldn’t have been good now. So icky!
Wow. Interesting post! But I almost threw up in my mouth…ugh
I know. Who decided this was a good idea?!
Holy jumping maggots Batman! I love cheese too but will pass on that one! 😂 Very interesting story though
Yeah. I guess I’m lucky to have had that experience in one way. But wow. Ick.
I do love cheese. But Lynne is the cheese connoisseur around here. However there’s no way she would eat this cheese with maggots in. Ha ha! Blegh! Fascinating story though! :-)
No, It was awful. I think it’s been made illegal now, although I’m sure families still produce it. I truly had blocked out the memory of that for years!
This is such an interesting story to share, and I truly enjoyed picturing you on such an informative and glorious travel experience. The exposure to such interesting cultural highlights is broadening, but like everyone else replying to you, I think I would find the maggots impossible to get beyond. This past season of the television’s “Amazing Race” featured this cheese when the contestants were in Corsica. To move forward, they had to eat the cheese. Brave souls, they did it. :-)
Really?!! I thought the cheese had been deemed illegal! I’m not sure why, really, because people should be able to eat what they want…. I used to love that show but have forgotten about it. I’d love to see that episode!!!
i’m not much of a cheese eater and i think the maggots would put me right off for life!:)
For life. For sure.
Love Corsica. Love their food. Love a small glass of digestif every day. But not maggots. Thank you.
I agree with you! No maggots!!!
人生不如意十之八九,开心最重要!
不知道说啥,开心快乐每一天吧!